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With such a variety, I didn't know which one to buy. I was convinced by a review on this specific one and I bought it.
When I went to the hospital for a follow-up examination due to COVID-19, the doctor who examined me said that I got a good oximeter, and the comparison we made with the hospital's oximeter showed that ControlBios is accurate in its readings. He also told me that with these oximeters we have at home, it is correct to wait a few minutes to see an accurate measurement and we should not rely on the first reading it shows when we put it on our finger.
Something I personally noticed is that the finger should not be inserted all the way in, but the nail should be right above the red light. This shows the most accurate measurement.
The batteries hold up well. It has been extensively used for over a month and even though it has an OLED screen, the batteries have not drained.
Very positive that the indicators (screen orientation) rotate in 90-degree increments.
Also, the fact that it has a PI% indicator and shows the pulse as a cardiogram. From these two, you can understand if you are doing something wrong, such as not properly inserting the finger, shaking the finger or the oximeter, being tense, things that affect the accuracy of the measurement.
Overall satisfied. It's worth its money.

I bought it for 16 euros. Without exaggeration, it feels like I "stole from a church". The value of the cooler is a solid 10 out of 10.

I use it with an i3-10105f and during a 20-minute Prime95 - Small FFTs (maximum power/heat/CPU stress) test, which is the toughest stress test out there, it consistently stays at 66 degrees Celsius CPU package/ hottest core temperature, with occasional peaks at 67-68 degrees at 65-watt power draw, in a closed (but spacious) case, without fans (but with all the plastic covers on the front for the DVD slots removed, as well as all the brackets on the back for screwing in PCIe cards removed). In terms of noise, in a completely quiet environment, during Prime95, the fan is audible but it doesn't bother me in terms of intensity or tone. In a repeated Cinebench R20 test, the 10105f with the 212 Spectrum stays consistently at 62 degrees with the fan spinning at even lower speeds, and as expected, it generates even less noise. As a user who values noise levels, I am completely satisfied (speaking specifically about the wattage my processor draws). I hope the fan remains reliable and quiet over time.

To understand how good these performances are, I have the i3-10100f as a comparison, which I use in another computer with the CM Hyper 212X, which has perforated fins that, according to the company, contribute to better airflow and cooling efficiency. In the same test, it reaches 60 degrees (instead of 66) with the same fan speeds but in an open case, with the processor drawing 5 watts less power, the motherboard operating the processor with 0.02 - 0.04 volts less, and the 10100f being better in terms of silicon quality than the 10105f. The fan of the 212 Spectrum V2 is slightly noisier than the 212X at the same speeds, and it may have a lower airflow. However, we are talking about a price difference that is even greater than double.

In the photo I uploaded, the maximum values are shown, but it should be noted that these values are due to the PL2, where the processor draws 75 watts instead of 65, and it only lasts for 28 seconds. Therefore, the average and current values are more representative than the maximum values.

I highly recommend it without hesitation. I consider myself very lucky to have found and chosen it.

Just for informational purposes, I will mention that the RGB cannot be controlled in this specific model. It is permanently set to rainbow wave mode. Also, it requires access to the back of the motherboard for installation. Personally, I don't find the installation difficult at all, but it definitely doesn't have the same ease and speed of installation as coolers with push pins. If it's your first time installing a cooler with this mounting system, watch some videos on the internet before starting and don't forget to screw it in crisscross and gradually.

P.S. I apologize to the community for my previous review, which I deleted and rewrote from scratch. The problem was found and it had nothing to do with the cooler.

Once again, I come across a piece of junk from tp link. Tested on two desktops with all available drivers from tp link, plus drivers installed by Windows 10 and drivers from applications that search for updated drivers based on hardware id. ALL drivers have issues and even with the most stable one, I experience endless disconnections that render the USB stick useless. The disconnections are not related to the router or the provider. It is purely a tp link problem. Sometimes the stick disconnects from the router, and other times, while maintaining the wifi connection, communication with the router freezes. All other devices in the house function normally, even when I lose internet access with tp link.
The store won't send it back to the company because they claim they don't see any problem, so once again, money wasted on tp link. They release faulty products on the market, making their customers beta testers, and then release fixed versions after a while. The v3 of this particular product is already available.
Additionally, the signal is mediocre. Although Windows shows 3 to 4 bars of signal strength, the speed and quality of the connection are affected and drop abruptly. This is in an environment free from channel congestion.

Be very careful, ask the store before buying it and verify that it is the one in the photo, which says Bluetooth 5.0 on top, with the hole to pass a string for a keychain and has a diamond-like design on its plastic casing. I am also uploading my own photo for verification.

From what I can tell, Windows 10 now installs its own driver which works without any issues. Strictly speaking only about my own USB stick (which seems to have different hardware from the one in the photos), it is a very good adapter. I have never had any connectivity problems. The devices connect instantly, do not disconnect, and the signal is good. I use it in combination with Bluetooth headphones, speakers, and an Xbox controller, and they all work. Windows shows the battery level of the headphones. The only issue is when I have both the controller and the headphones connected at the same time. If I am at a certain distance, the signal drops and the bandwidth is not enough for both to work without interruptions. But considering its cost, I have no complaints. It is worth every penny.

I am fed up with this particular item. Every afternoon or evening when it's time to turn on the lamp, it never lights up on the first try. So I have to turn off the switch again, wait 5 seconds, and then turn on the light. If I don't wait and try to turn on the lamp again immediately, it loses synchronization and starts flashing at a rate that can cause seizures. Once it loses synchronization or fails to synchronize right after purchase, the lamp is literally garbage, it can't be used because all it does is flicker. The second issue is a huge flaw from the manufacturing company. The lamp, from its construction, is impossible to use if it doesn't connect to the internet at least once during the initial synchronization. In the beginning, until I learned my lesson, every night I had to go through the resynchronization process in order to have light in my room. The problem, however, is that I'm not the only one using it, so someone else's ignorance can also cause a lack of lighting. Another huge flaw from the company is the collection of personal data. While there are ways to easily control the lamp from your phone, you are not given the ability to do so if it doesn't have internet access. Even though it has a QR code on the packaging, which could be sufficient for pairing the phone and lamp via Bluetooth, you are not given this option. The lamp MUST have internet access! Even if I connect both the lamp and the phone to the same router or access point, if they don't have internet access, the VTAC app refuses to proceed with the pairing process. The lamp must have internet access! It is not necessary for a lamp to have internet access in order for me to turn on the light in my room. It is not necessary for a lamp to have internet access in order for me to control its other functions. The only thing that is necessary is a way to pair the lamp and the phone, and for that, Bluetooth alone is sufficient, maybe even a wireless network regardless of internet access. Why should I have control of the lamp via the internet when all its functions are useless to me when I'm not at home? The answer to this is "user data collection." I repeat, internet access is only necessary during the pairing process. Afterwards, it should be able to function as long as it doesn't lose synchronization, which happens frequently in my case. Another negative aspect is that the app is quite overloaded and confusing, and difficult to use during the pairing process. You can't dim the light too low. On the positive side, the lamp had enough brightness for a bedroom and decent performance (1055 lumens from 11 watts) as long as I could use it, and it allows you to adjust the lighting temperature based on personal preference or match it to the room's colors. Finally, I believe a child would love the other functions with the RGB colors, so I imagine it would be a good gift. In conclusion, I regret the money that was wasted on giving it to me as a gift. From today, I will retire it.